Operational Cache Part 3: Choosing Storage Containers For The Cache and Hiding Them

Let’s review what an operational cache is:

An operational cache is a secure source for re-supply of equipment and needed items to access later when needed.

An operational cache does NOT have to be buried but certainly can be. It may be at a buddy’s house, in a storage unit, in the corner of your shed, or buried up in the mountains beside a large oak tree. The decision on where to storage the cache is highly dependent on many factors including geographical location, contents, specific intended uses, and method and means of access.

Before a cache can be put together a container to put everything in has to be decided on. Container selection can vary tremendously.

For an above ground operational cache simple containers such as backpacks and totes can be used to house supplies. More rugged and secure containers such as the Rubbermaid ActionPacker and Pelican/Hardigg hard cases can also be used.

A stump located out in the middle of nowhere could provide a unique location for an above ground cache hid deep down inside of it. Covered with vegetation a bypassing hunter could glance inside and never see what awaits inside.

The decision is up to the creator while taking into consideration where the cache will be stored and what will be in it.

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Below ground caches certainly adds some complexity as protection from the elements must be maintained. Ammo cans can be used however this will limit firearms to pistols due to their typically small size. PVC caches can be made large enough to fit full-sized rifles and hold a lot of supplies  – completely watertight. The aforementioned Pelican/Hardigg hard cases can also be buried and afford excellent protection.

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Hiding the operational cache requires some creativity and a realization that often something can be right in front of you and not even know it is there. Last summer my family got into Geocaching. It was amazing to see the number of places that I had frequented for years and had no idea there was a cache right there.

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Consider a compost bin like mine above. An ammo can placed inside covered with composting scraps would be a great hiding place. How about under the bin itself buried a foot down?

“Finding it years later when the terrain changes can be challenging.”

As far as burying a cache out in the country or in the mountain it does not go without risk. First – I would not bury anything that can lead back to you should it be discovered. A firearm purchased through a dealer and coinciding with a Form 4473 filled out will link the purchaser to that firearm. Only bury firearms purchased via private sale.

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PVC containers can float if sufficient rain occurs. Placing such a cache under a large rock or weighing it down will help keep it hidden. The number of hiding places on open land is endless. Finding it years later when the terrain changes can be challenging. Numerous GPS apps and devices can assist in sourcing the operational cache assuming the satellites are still active. Buried caches should be well off the roadside. Detailed maps of the area with notes regarding the precise location of the cache will aid in finding the cache as well. Modern satellite imagery that can be printed out can provide an excellent reference with numerous waypoints to locate any hidden cache.

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Several techniques are used when burying. One involves burying in an area and then spreading nails over the cache and surrounding area. This provides numerous false positives for anyone using a metal detector. The other provides a decoy which to find. The idea here is to bury the cache deep and then place a “prize” above it so as to satisfy the diggers curiosity.

Hopefully this has provided some ideas when it comes to selecting a container and sourcing a place for it to go.

Coming up in Part 4 – What To Put in an Operational Cache.

JR

 

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9 Comments

  1. JAS says:

    Great series of articles on caching. I have been thinking, planning for several different caches for about a year now and they came along at just the right time. The one thing I noticed missing was taking into account your winters. I live in Florida and can dig year round, but when I lived in Maine, it would have been impossible to access a buried cache several months out of the year. I am looking at making several duplicate caches, all containing the same items and documents.

  2. goingray58 says:

    Anything that points to something directly, like the big red “X” in cartoons, can be sourced and found if the doc is found. Short of having tattooed to the sole of your foot or inside of your arm… It’s more secure to code your location. That seems anal even to me, but if I absolutely have to have it and act based on it being there, then it HAS to be there. Phonetics and character substitution are pretty easy to figure out, but you have to guess anyone you run into is probably not going to be all that bright. And where to keep it ? A laminated card in a wallet probably works.. just pretend you are making a cheat sheet like in high school Algebra. 🙂 I wonder about dividing a cache or multiple cache’s. Anything valuable to me isn’t going to be cheap.. You know what they say Money, time or easy.. you can pick any two and have them.. none can have all 3. Ultimately everything seems to be about your specific goals and needs.
    Good topic..

  3. Oren says:

    Your list of a few items for preparedness…..
    My wife, a retired nurse, told me that in the ER they often used the standard Kotex maxi pad when they had a wound they had to really work on to stop the bleeding. I recently built my go anywhere first aid kit and included among other things; a couple of Kotex pads, a package of clotting sponges, gauze, surgical tape, triple antibiotic slave, gloves, snake bite kit, Also, the cell phone and the trusty S&W .40. This goes with me in the woods since I’m cutting a right of way and clearing it.

    1. Panhandle Rancher says:

      Tampons will plug a thru and thru bullet wound for a quick fix. Some are sterile as well. Celox makes rapid ribbon with chitosan for puncture injuries and a host of other hemostatic products. Kotex pads are better than a torn slip but if you are putting together that IFAK Celox products are much superior.

      PR

    2. Panhandle Rancher says:

      Oren,

      Most so-called snake bite kits have been proven to do more harm than good (http://www.mayoclinic.org/first-aid/first-aid-snake-bites/basics/ART-20056681).

      I would not waste the space with a Cutter snake bite kit or similar. Do not cut, do not suction, do not use a tourniquet. These actions do more harm than good.

      Crotalidae antivenin (CroFab) and antibiotics are standard these days for the Crotalidae (pit viper) bite. The wife was bitten by a prairie rattler at our Texas ranch and even with five bottles of CroFab, spent a week in intensive care – and in pain.

      Crotalidae antivenin is used in the US for everything but Coral Snake bites (red on yellow, kill a fellow). Coral snakes have a black face. The Elapids have the most potent venom of all snakes (Coral snakes, cobra, mamba, etc) and of course their own antivenin.

      Rattlesnake bite is painful and life threatening. See:http://rattlesnakebite.org/rattlesnakepics.htm for an example of how Justin’s bite turned out.

      PR

        1. Panhandle Rancher says:

          Goingray58, many of the antivenins could be classified as boutique medicines, produced at a financial loss. When the wife was bitten by that rattler, I wrote the parent company in Australia that produced Crotalidae antivenin and praised their effort. A month or so later, I received a note from those wonderful folks to the effect that my letter of thanks had been distributed to every employee on every continent in which they do business. Like the 10 blind men healed by the Lord, I suppose not many pause to give thanks.
          PR

  4. Irish-7 says:

    I purchased several different sized containers a few years ago. I bought 2 large tubes from The Sportsman’s Guide and the small one (pictured above) at a gun show. I admit, it is difficult selecting the items that you are caching, as they are NOT readily available. As goinggray58 mentioned, I coded the names and cache locations so that the list would not make sense to outsiders. I was just explaining the acronyms to my son earlier today! Anyway, be sure to make a list of what you stashed, including expiration dates of any perishable items.

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