I’m interested in expanding into the realm of AR-10 ownership in 2017. I have zero experience with these and have performed little research as of yet. If any of you out there have experience and first hand knowledge I would be very interested.
Prices today are getting more attractive with the DPMS Oracle rifle running around $800. The advantages to a semi-automatic .308/7.62 are obvious.
Rourke
This video covers the entire process of building a basic AR-15. Many people find tremendous satisfaction putting together their own AR’s. There is also something to be said for throwing a few lowers to the side and in certain political climates assembling at another time.
Enjoy the video.
Why reload your own ammunition? Two reasons: reloaded ammunition may be much cheaper than factory and reloaded ammunition has the potential to greatly increase the accuracy of your rifle or pistol.
I have reloaded rifle, pistol, and shotgun ammunition, and cast pistol bullets and big heavy bullets for the old black powder rifle cartridges such as the .45-70 for more than half a century. I also cast 0, 00, and 000 buckshot and 12 gauge slugs and sabot rounds. Much of my reloading equipment was purchased back in the 1960s and still in use.
Otis developed the first safe elevator with automatic braking. A favorite quote from this inventor is ‘safety first, gentlemen, safety first.’ I can think of no more fitting appellation for reloading ammunition. Please don’t smoke when using either black or smokeless powder and remember black powder is more static sensitive than smokeless. There’s a reason many black powder mills were on barges anchored in a river. I don’t like distractions and once set upon the task of reloading, that process proceeds without interruption.
Some basic nomenclature: a cartridge consists of primer, case, powder, and bullet, sometimes called a round; a fired cartridge consists of a spent primer and the powder container often called ‘brass, fired round, or case’ that may be steel, brass, plastic, aluminum, or a combination of brass and paper.
Over the decades, I’ve developed certain procedures in the repetitive process of reloading ammunition with the intent of reducing errors. If using a powder measure (more about these later), the name of the powder and charge is written with a magic marker on a low adhesive tape and affixed to the dispenser. This tape is typically green or blue and removes much easier than the cream colored masking tape of old. Upon completion of the loading process, I match the powder label on the dispenser with the factory powder container, peel this tape off of the dispenser, and dump any excess back into the bulk container. http://www.uline.com/BL_6141/3M-2090-Masking-Tape
MISIDENTIFICATION of powder charge, brand, year of manufacture, or type can have LETHAL RESULTS. Older Hodgen 4831 and DuPont IMR 4831 are not the same. Read and understand current reloading manuals. I try to choose loads based upon specific commercial bullet manufacturer’s reloading handbooks (when reloading Hornady XTP bullets, I use the Hornady manual). http://www.hornady.com/store/9th-Edition-Reloading-Manual3. Speer, Sierra https://www.sierrabullets.com/store/product.cfm/sn/0507/Sierra-5th-Edition-Reloading-Manual-Printed-version-and-Infinity-7-Exterior-Ballistic-Software-Program-CD-Rom, Lyman, Barnes, RCBS, Nosler and others produce reloading manuals. I often consult several from different sources as insurance against misprint https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=reloading+manuals
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I carefully note the powder brand and type for the cartridge for bullet weight and type being reloaded. I remove that particular bulk powder container from my powder locker (green metal lockable cabinet adjacent to loading bench in photos). I verify this again when writing the powder and charge weight on the removable masking tape affixed to the powder measure dispenser hopper, and then again upon completion when removing the annotated tape from the measure before discharging back into the bulk container. This repetition is intentional.
Bullet weight and type is matched against that bullet manufacture’s published loading data. Before actually loading the bullet into a primed and charged case, I weigh a sample bullet to preclude any misidentification by the manufacturer. Depending upon the bullet, I may even measure its diameter and length with vernier calipers for comparison against published specifications https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calipers.
Every reloader should have a stainless steel vernier caliper capable of measuring to the 0.001” along with a selection of inside and outside calipers mentioned in the beginning of the wiki article. Some calipers may have an easier to read circular analog dial (dial caliper) or the older linear vernier scale. Digital calipers are easiest to read but of course rely on batteries which mechanical calipers and micrometers never need. Vernier calipers are useful for measuring resized case length (cases ‘grow’ longer with each shooting and must be shortened to factory dimensions periodically) as well as case overall length inclusive of the loaded bullet. Exceeding case length and cartridge length specifications can drastically increase pressure resulting in LETHAL INJURY.
If you intend to build your own weapons or engage in gunsmithing, a good set of inside and outside micrometers capable of measuring 0.0001” are also useful.
From my primer locker (another of those lockable green cabinets adjacent to the reloading bench), I select the proper primer for the cartridge being reloaded. Primers come in three basic diameters and are further distinguished as being intended for rifle or pistol, as well as for magnum calibers. So a primer may be either small or large (diameter) or even bigger for the .50BMG cartridge http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1301713135/cci-50-bmg-primers-35; magnum or not; and for rifle or pistol. Pistol primers typically have thinner cups intended for less robust striker mechanisms and lower pressures found in pistols and if inadvertently used in a high pressure rifle cartridge, may explosively breach allowing both gases and debris to strike the shooter and/or bystanders. Magnum cartridges, both pistol and rifle, typically have a greater case volume than traditional cartridges and may require higher energy primers to optimally ignite the larger powder charge. Use of a magnum primer in a cartridge not so designated may cause excessive pressures resulting an explosive breach of the primer or cartridge along with possible destruction of the weapon and injury of the shooter and/or bystander.
I review the appropriate loading data for proper primer selection and remove a box (or boxes – primers are typically packed 100/discrete box) of the proper primers from the primer locker. Not necessary but expedient and time saving, I then charge a RCBS universal priming tool http://www.rcbs.com/Products/Priming/Tools/Universal-Hand-Priming-Tool.aspx with 100 primers. Next I label another strip of that masking tape with the primer manufacturer and type designators and affix to the hand-priming device. This tool is a convenience and time saving device and not essential to the reloading process as the press I use and recommend has its own priming device that unfortunately is much slower. Before actually priming decapped (a cartridge with spent primer removed) cartridges, I once again compare the specified primer with the primer box and primer label on the hand priming tool. Upon completion of the priming operation with all brass now primed, I repeat this process and return any unused primers left in the tool to the factory box and replace this box in the primer locker.
Grease from fingers (natural or lubricant related) can deactivate primers. Clean your mitts before handling primers and then strive to minimize contact. This is but one reason why I like the hand priming tool, I never touch the primers when using it and dump a box of 100 directly into the primer hopper that feeds the tool. I also tend to reload in groups of 100 so seldom am left with primers to return to the factory box.
Regardless of whether you use a hand priming tool or that with the press (which by the way requires handling individual primers), the primer should be seated completely against the bottom of the cartridge primer pocket. I feel the back of each cartridge with a thumb or finger to ensure the primer cup is slightly below flush with the back of the cartridge. A slam fire in a semi-automatic weapon or unexpected discharge may result when chambering any cartridge with primer cup extending even a smidgen beyond the cartridge base. Such is a dangerous condition and to be avoided. I seal primer pockets (not a required process) with a waterproofing agent (clear fingernail polish works well) and re-check each primer for proper seating during this process. By all means, avoid crushing the primer during the seating process or it might fire. A prudent person will also avoid putting eyes or other body parts over the open end of the cartridge when priming (which is easy to do with the hand priming tool).
Military cartridges are typically identified by the arsenal and year of production. The base of a 7.62×51 NATO (7.62 is the caliber and 51 the length in millimeters) might be annotated “LC 02’ designating a cartridge manufactured in 2002 by the Lake City Arsenal. Such brass often has a green or red rim around the primer cup. This colored agent is a waterproofing compound. Readers are likely interested in reloading 5.56x45NATO or 7.62x51NATO ammunition, or alternatively but not the same, .223 Rem or .308 Win. These pairs of cartridges are not completely interchangeable and both as a shooter and as a reloader. it is incumbent upon you to know and understand the difference.
Military cartridges are often fired in belt fed automatic weapons whose self loading and extracting process tends to be more robust than encountered with sporting rifles and handguns. To ensure primers do not back out, the primer pocket in the casing is often crimped around the primer. Decapping force required is slightly greater and the crimp ridge must be removed before re-priming. Lyman makes both primer pocket reamers (to remove that crimp ridge) and primer pocket cleaners (to remove firing residue). The reamers come in three sizes, small, large, and arsenal (for the .50BMG). The first two are essential for reloading most military cartridges. http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/case-prep/primer-pocket-reamer.php
The proper designator for the US caliber.30 main combat rifle cartridge is 7.62x51NATO. Specifics are important and even more for the reloader. There are a host 7.62 cartridges (7.62 Argentine, 7.62x54r (Russian), 7.62×39, etc.), and of course the popular 7.62x51NATO. I’ll repeat once more, 7.62x51NATO is not the same as .308 Win. The performance is different, the cases are different, and the bullets are different. Likewise there is a .38 S&W and a .38 Special, two different cartridges. 5.56x41NATO is different than .223 Remington.
Reloading begins with case inspection. Please do not try to reload Berdan primed brass or steel cases. When in contact with leather and a host of other materials, brass will corrode. Leather turns brass an ugly green (residual acids from the tanning process leaches copper from brass) and weakens the case. Some brass cases are nickel plated and usually shiny. Nickel is more corrosion resistant than brass and plated cases are highly reloadable. Steel cases are usually dull in color and may have a lacquer or shellac coating that reduces extraction friction. Non-US manufactured military ammunition is likely Berdan primed, steel, and will not have a central flash hole so conducive to decapping. Berdan primers differ from Boxer primers (the US standard) in that there is no integral primer anvil. I am convinced repressive governments limit civilian access to potential ammunition supplies by using Berdan primers. Picking up fired brass is illegal in some countries.
Examine the base of the fired cartridge and primer carefully. The primer cup often reveals over pressure issues. Primers are slightly rounded at the edges. Excessive pressure eliminates this slight radius so that the primer completely fills the primer pocket. Even more pressure causes a ridge around the circumference of the firing pin caused depression in the primer. That circumferential ridge is the primer flowing into the hole in the bolt that the firing pin passes through. This is a certain sign of incipient primer failure due to excessive pressure.
If a primer fails obturation (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Obturation) and breaches, gasses and debris both powder and metal under very high pressure (60,000 pounds per square inch or more in the case of some rifle cartridges), blow back into the bolt and may strike the shooter. The barrel may even burst with disastrous effect to the shooter and bystanders. Always wear eye protection when shooting and insist on the same for all onlookers.
I next examine the case ending with the neck area, looking for swelling and splitting. Shooting expands the brass cartridge casing causing momentary obturation at the chamber. Brass is ductile and upon release of pressure (the bang), relaxes toward (but not reaching) its original diameter. This very relaxation makes case extraction possible. Resizing fired brass to factory diameter is a component step in the reloading process. Repetitive expansion and contraction (following firing and in resizing) both weakens and lengthens the case actually causing work hardening. Splitting around the case neck is the first sign a case may have been reloaded too many times. Annealing (softening the work hardened brass – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_%28metallurgy%29) the case mouth may rehabilitate a group of brass cases when one exhibits characteristic splitting. Never reload a case with splitting around the opening. I crush such in a vice and discard.
A die is used in the reloading press to resize the cartridge to factory dimensions http://www.rcbs.com/Products/Dies-by-Category/Group-A-E-Dies/Group-A-Popular-Rifle-Cartridges/Full-Length-Die-Set-Group-A-Popular-Rifle-Cartridg.aspx. This die often decaps the case, removing the spent primer and then expands the neck to proper internal dimension. Should I mention that the dies being used in the reloading processes must match the cartridge being reloaded? There are exceptions, for instance .357 Magnum dies can be used to reload .38 Special, .44 Magnum dies can be used to reload .44 Special but such tends to be the exception rather than the rule and generally apply to certain straight walled cases. On the other hand, a neck sizing die for 7.62x51NATO and .308 Win are interchangeable and may be used with the .30-‘06; shell holders for .30-‘06 can be used for 7.62x51NATO, .308 Win, and .45acp and other cartridges based upon the .30-‘06 rim base dimensions. Loading manuals publish factory dimensions for both bullets and cases as well as trim to length dimensions. Be sure you understand all limitations and restrictions before making any substitution of die/cartridge/shell holder. Errors in application can cause the case to not achieve obturation and/or produce excess pressures resulting in catastrophic weapon failure. An error in the shell holder application may result in a case stuck in the resizing die. This is not a die ending event (a pun) and the stuck case can be extracted but at the expense of lost time and measure of frustration.
Bench loaders striving for ultimate accuracy and reloading ammunition for a specific weapon only, may just neck size fired brass. Most however desire their ammunition to function in any weapon so full length resizing is most often used. Reloading dies most commonly come in three diameters with 7/8×14 thread the most common. Rifle calibers often require only two dies, full-length resizing/decapping/neck expanding and bullet seating. Pistol calibers are typically straight wall cases and may require three or four dies. Dies are made of hardened tool steel, some with a carbide steel insert. The latter are more expensive but preferable as no resizing lubricant is required. http://www.rcbs.com/Products/Dies-by-Category/Group-A-E-Dies/Group-E-Straight-Walled-Cartridges/3-Die-Carbide-Taper-Crimp-Set-Group-E-Straight-Wal.aspx.
Reloading presses secure the brass case and provide a method for forcing it into and removal from the various reloading dies. The simplest of presses is the single stage RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme http://www.rcbs.com/Products/Presses-and-Kits/Single-Stage/Rock-Chucker-Supreme-Press.aspx. I’ve used the predecessor Rock Chucker press for more than a half century and are available for about $100 used. http://www.ebay.com/itm/RCBS-RC-Rock-Chucker-Reloading-Press-w-Primer-Punch-Lee-Lyman-Hornady-/191925134037.
Volume reloaders may desire a progressive or turret press to speed the loading process http://www.rcbs.com/Products/Presses-and-Kits/Turret/Turret-Press.aspx or a real high speed progressive press made by Dilllon http://www.dillonprecision.com/super-1050_8_1_23877.html.
The Lyman 310 tool is a time proven cheap entry to the reloading world http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/dies/lyman-310-tool.php. Its portability and simplicity make it a good item for deep stores. Lee also makes a hand reloading tool http://leeprecision.com/lee-loader-9mm-luger.html. I have a now obsolete Lyman Tru Line Jr. turret press that I use for small pistol cartridges. This press uses the same dies as the Lyman 310 tool (5/8×30 dies).
THE MECHANICS
After inspection, fired brass is lubricated if necessary, decapped and resized. http://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-Case-Lube/741087.uts?productVariantId=1324051&WT.tsrc=PPC&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=25794311&rid=20&gclid=CK_U_a65_c0CFZaMaQodrjQE1Q&gclsrc=aw.ds.
Primer pockets are cleaned and reamed if necessary. The length of the resized cartridge is measured using the vernier caliper and compared with published specification. If too long, I trim to published length using the RCBS Trim Pro #2 cutter http://www.rcbs.com/Products/Case-Preparation/Case-Trimming/Trim-Pro-2-Manual-Case-Trimmer-Kit.aspx equipped with three way cutting head http://www.rcbs.com/Products/Case-Preparation/Case-Trimming/Trim-Pro-3-Way-Cutter.aspx.
The brass is then cleaned and/or polished (not necessary except for maximum pressure loads but makes for a nice end product) using an ultrasonic cleaner http://www.rcbs.com/Products/Case-Preparation/Case-Cleaning/Ultrasonic-Case-Cleaner-120-VAC.aspx and /or vibratory polisher http://www.rcbs.com/Products/Case-Preparation/Case-Cleaning/Vibratory-Case-Cleaner-120-VAC.aspx.
At this point the brass casings have been inspected, decapped, trimmed to length, and cleaned. If the brass is straight wall design (.357 Magnum, .44 Magnum, 9mm, .45acp, .45-70, etc.), the case mouth must be very slightly belled to facilitate bullet seating. This is done with an expander die. Some pistol rounds headspace on the case rim (9mm, .45acp, etc.). Caution must be used not to excessively bell nor crimp the case mouth of those type brass cases. Any residual belling after seating the bullet should be removed by adjusting the die to set a slight crimp resulting in straight case shoulder.
After resizing and before priming (or re-capping), I always measure case length and trim as necessary. The chamfering tool http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/case-prep/carbide-case-prep.php eases bullet starting, especially for non-boat tail bullets and can be used to bring overall case length into specification. If you intend to reload more than casually, I recommend the RCBS high capacity case trimmer or better, the Trim Pro 2 http://www.rcbs.com/Products/Case-Preparation/Case-Trimming/Trim-Pro-2-Manual-Case-Trimmer-Kit.aspx that both trims and chamfers in one operation.
The case is now ready to be primed using either the hand tool or reloading press.
An essential safety (and convenience item) is a reloading block http://www.rcbs.com/Products/Case-Preparation/Accessories/Universal-Case-Loading-Block.aspx. Some are made from plastic, some from wood, and others aluminum. All are different. A company long out of business produced mine. The loading block holds cases upright after charging with powder. Once all cases are so charged, one can visually cross inspect the powder level for all brass. Take your time with this. Ensure all cases have powder and all powder levels are the same. 1/10 of a grain makes a huge difference in pressure with maximum loadings and may be the difference between a ruptured barrel and an otherwise satisfying bang. Always weigh individual powder charges when loading near or at maximum pressures and work up to them gradually.
So you may ask, how is powder weighed? Very carefully, I quip. US powder measure is by the grain (an average weight of a grain of cereal such as wheat or barley). By established convention, there are 7000 grains to the pound.
Almost 60 years ago, I purchased a Redding #2 powder scale. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/658771/redding-2-master-magnetic-powder-scale-505-grain-capacity. It works as well today as when purchased. This is a magnetically dampened all metal balance beam type scale. More modern scales use plastics and at least one manufacturer had problems with static charges on plastic scales. Static charge is of concern in two ways, a spark igniting the powder, and worse affecting dampening causing erratic readings. Buy the Redding #2 and you won’t go wrong. When using a manual scale, a powder trickler is helpful for adding small amounts of powder to the scale pan http://www.rcbs.com/Products/Powder-Measures-and-Scales/Powder-Measures/Tricklers/Powder-Trickler-2.aspx and the Redding trickler is even better https://www.amazon.com/Redding-Reloading-Powder-Trickler-05000/dp/B000PW7KE2/ref=sr_1_3/000-9968453-7225914?ie=UTF8&qid=1468875980&sr=8-3&keywords=redding+scale.
Along with the trickler, a useful item is the powder measure. A powder measure dispenses an adjustable volume of powder. I like the Lyman #55 powder measure for discharging smaller charges such as for pistol or small rifle cases such as the 5.56x41NATO http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/scales-measures/55-std-baffle-stand.php.
For anything bigger than .30-’06, consistency requires a powder tube of more capacity such as the RCBS charger for .50BMG. If I only had one powder measure it would be the Lyman because of its better design (a 7000 grain charge tube is available as an option). Be sure and measure every 5th or 10th powder charge if using a powder measure. As the powder level in the tube decreases, the level of compaction in the measuring chamber does likewise. From time to time measure volume may need adjusting to compensate for changing density.
Volume reloaders striving for peak accuracy should consider the combination electronic scales and dispenser made by RCBS, the Chargemaster Pro http://www.rcbs.com/Products/Powder-Measures-and-Scales/Powder-Measures/Electronic/ChargeMaster-Combo-120-VAC.aspx. Users of this fine scale and powder measure desiring grid independence should still purchase a manual scale such as the Redding #2.
Weigh individual charges when loading near design pressure limit!
So now we have a block of 50 to 100 carefully inspected, trimmed, polished, primed, and charged cases. All have powder and all powder is at the same level in each case (use a flashlight for inspecting bottle neck cartridges) and any straight walled cases are very slightly belled at the mouth.
The bullet-seating die is installed in the press. I take a sample factory round and carefully adjust this die until it just contacts the nose of the bullet. That round is then removed and a charged case is installed in the press. A bullet is then started into the bell and this assembly is gently run up into the seating die. Overall cartridge (case + bullet) length is measured and compared to specification and the seating die readjusted as necessary until the bullet is properly seated, any bell at the case mouth is removed, and proper cartridge overall length is achieved.
The end product is a high quality round of ammunition as good as or better than produced by the factory and at a cheaper cost. By judiciously comparing different powders and charges and different bullets and bullet designs, one can usually develop a custom cartridge for each rifle or pistol whose accuracy far exceeds that possible with factory ammunition.
Serious shooters often add a chronograph to their reloading apparatus, as the ability to measure muzzle velocity for a particular load is worthwhile in developing trajectory curves for discrete loads. When I was young, pressure was measured by use of a universal bond receiver equipped with a copper crusher gauge. Strain gauges are now commonplace and are much more accurate. While once in the purview of commercial ammunition manufacturers, these tools are increasingly within the cost range of the serious shooter.
A summary of favorite equipment/manufacturers are as follows:
Presses: RCBS Rock Chucker
Volume reloading progressive presses: Dillon
Powder measure: Lyman #55
Powder scale (manual): Redding #2
Powder trickler: Redding
Case prep tools: Lyman
Case trimming tools: RCBS
Shotgun presses (not covered here): MEC Jr. These are available cheap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MEC-12ga-600-JR-Shot-Shell-Reloading-Press-Vintage-1972-with-Lyman-Handbook-/131875958650
Bullet casting moulds, pots: Lyman http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/bullet-casting/mould-details.php?entryID=28
Bullet sizing: Lyman 4500 Lube sizer (will seat gas checks) http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/bullet-casting/4500-lube-sizer.php
Shotgun buckshot and slug moulds: Lee https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Buck-Shot-18-Mold/dp/B005Y50H5O; http://leeprecision.com/1-oz-slug-mold.html
Pistol shooters in particular can greatly reduce the cost of reloaded ammunition by casting their own bullets from automotive wheel weights. Another more complicated process for producing higher quality rifle and pistol bullets is called swaging. Casting and swaging are rightfully topics of an additional post and if interested let me know.
Reloading has many discrete steps and appropriate caution must be applied at each stage of the process. If you are uncertain, don’t do it. I began reloading as a pre-teen and shot competitively for some years afterward. Reloading is a very useful and cost saving process for the active shooter.
The Lyman Reloading introduction guide is available at: http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/presses-and-kits/pdf/IntroToReloading.pdf
In all things, follow the motto of Davy Crockett, ‘be sure you’re right and then go ahead.’ Marksmanship is a perishable skill set and reloading offers more bang for the buck.
Hope this helps someone.
Panhandle Rancher
Loyal reader Lightning recently commented that it is better to have a few guns with lots of ammo than lots of guns with little ammo. I agree. For many of us and I include myself in this group we are gun nuts at heart. We “collect” guns and often use the excuse that we need them for our preparedness system and ignore funding ammunition stores as we should.
How about spare parts? How many of us have extra firing pins, buffer springs, and bolt carrier groups? We will spend $1000 on an AR and hundreds if not thousands on ammunition and zero on spare parts. This should not be the case.
Granted most of us will never see a worn buffer spring or bolt but the investment is minimal. As prepper’s we do not think of what most likely WON’T happen we consider the possibilities of what MIGHT happen. A broken firing pin will render a firearm useless.
Rourke
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Choate, Machine, and Tool offers their AR-15 Essential Spare Parts Kit for $29.99. The kit comes with an Extractor, Extractor Pin, Two Extractor Spring Assembly, Ejector/Selector Detent Spring, Selector/Safety Detent, Takedown/Pivot Pin Detent, Takedown/Pivot Pin Detent Spring, Takedown Pin, Pivot Pin, Hammer/Trigger Pin and Three Bolt Gas Rings. These are the part most often lost or most often to fail on the AR platform.
Remember when Cheaper Than Dirt jacked up prices on ammunition and magazines right after Sandy Hook? I do – and have avoided them like the plague ever since. Of course they had every right to charge whatever they wished and I – and countless thousands – have every right to tell them “Keep it!!”
I’ve had numerous people tell me they were practicing capitalism in a free market. Sure. They were also price gouging their customer base and taking advantage. My local gun shop went up in prices approx 20%. I gave them my business. This means I paid $1200 for a $1000 AR.
Why was it OK for them to increase their price and not Cheaper Than Dirt? I am not saying CTD shouldn’t have raised their prices. My local shop HAD to raise their price as supplies were drying up. They looked at a situation where they may have significantly lower inventory in the coming months thus severe decrease in business. The cost on future products – AR’s, magazines, ammunition was also going up. They very well couldn’t sell me a box of 5.56 for $8.00 that was going to cost them $8.00 or more to resupply. In order to stay in business they had to raise their prices.
No – Cheaper Than Dirt was different. They gouged the hell out of 2nd Amendment lovers and many others did the same thing. Hyatt Guns in Charlotte, NC started selling 5.56 and .223 rounds for $1.00 a round shortly after Sandy Hook. I haven’t set foot in that place and won’t.
Many predict another similar environment is just a matter of time when supply will pale in comparison to demand and prices will skyrocket. Those in a position to watch from the sidelines knowing their inventories are set will enjoy the show while those still in need of supplies will stress over their ability to stock up.
Stack it high – right now.
Rourke
I’m of that generation who drove old pickup trucks to school at age 14 (yes, we had paper driver’s licenses at that age and before, way back then) with rifles and shotguns suspended from a rack behind the seat blocking the rear glass. There were no crew cabs and the pickup trucks had single bench seats. Every truck in the school parking lot displayed at least one rifle and many had fishing rods as well. Without even noticing it, those trucks sporting rifle racks in plain view – all disappeared.
I didn’t give vehicle mounted rifle racks much attention until my first African safari. We were hunting the Big Five with double rifles, a .458 Lott bolt action rifle, and a light rifle in .300 Win Mag. Those of you who were raised reading about Karamojo Bell (Walter D.M. Bell), probably liked reading the White Snows of Kilimanjaro and The Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber by Hemingway, and know that a good double rifle in such a venerable caliber as .470 NE is likely more expensive than the median house in the US. So I had a good look at the rifle racks in the Toyota Land Cruiser pick up truck before entrusting my rifles to their safekeeping. Furthermore I knew we would be bouncing across equatorial east Africa, as there were no roads other than the ruts we might make. That opinion was amplified by observing two spare sets of leaf springs and three spare tires mounted to the roll cage.
So what kind of rack would one entrust their rifle valued at six figures in these circumstances? The vehicle was equipped with several sturdily fabricated rifle mounts using 1” angle iron and rebar. In the cab, two sections of half inch rebar were bent into a U shape and welded at the outside bottom of the U to the angle iron separated by about 14”. Two of these mounts were affixed vertically in the cab. The U sections were then wrapped repetitively with a strip of inner tube with a piece left hanging from one end of the U long enough to wrap several times around the other open end of the U and back. Simple, strong, capable of being easily repaired, and durable. Similar, but larger size rifle mounts were affixed horizontally on the transverse portion of the roll cage. These mounts were intended to secure rifles inside lined canvas cases thus protected from dirt and debris. These mounts served me well during this hunt and subsequent with the same PH.
When planning a rifle mount for my trusty Jeep TEOTWAWKI, I first considered duplicating those used in Africa. I wanted a mount that would hold two rifles vertically between the front bucket seats, TEOTWAWKI however did not have the room up front of those one ton Toyota trucks. The standard gearshift and transfer case shift levers were in the way and I had mounted a metal box between the seats for a duplicate ignition system, alternator, and tools). I considered all sorts of placements for the rifle rack but wanted my M1A easily accessible while driving.
Living in hunt country where four wheelers and side-by-sides abound, I realized a lot of thought had been put into designing rifle mounts for these type vehicles. Given the space constraints and design goal, none looked as if they could be mounted directly to the TEOTWAWKI. I purchased a set of Kolpin Rhino Grips intended for two rifles (see www.kolpin.com/powersports/hunt/rhino-grip-xl-double) with the intent of fabricating a custom mount for these rifle grips.
I ended up fabricating a lower mount adapter out of a one inch angle iron welded transverse to a strip of 1 ½”x ¼” flat iron that would bolt to the floorboard. This piece of flat iron was drilled in three places in the vertical section and tapped for 7/16 x24 tpi bolts (the size and thread of two thumbscrews I had on hand). A three inch piece of one end was bent and drilled to bolt to the floorboard. The transverse angle portion would then be bolted to two pieces of metal in turn bolted to the sides of the metal box between the seats. I then welded a five inch piece of angle transverse to a 1 ½” x ¼ flat, 16” in length and drilled three 3/8” holes. The holes in both flat iron pieces were located so that the upper mount could be secured by the 7/16” thumbscrews in either a raised or lowered position.
The mount provides a secure way to mount driver and front passenger accessible rifles. If leaving the open top vehicle, a bicycle type chain lock can be used to secure the rifles to the vehicle by running the wire rope through the open actions and looping around the welded lower mount. The way in which the lower mount is bolted to the floorboard would require removing the lower transmission support for access to the nuts. Any cable can be cut and I loathe leaving rifles in plain sight, but this at least provides a measure of security.
I hope this brief article perhaps gives some ideas as how to transport rifles in your vehicle. Should you employ such a mount, I recommend knowing and complying with your state and local laws, especially before picking up the kiddos at school and with two M14s proximately displayed between the seats.
Please be careful and responsible with accessible vehicle mounted rifles and in all things, adopt Davy Crockett’s motto.
Panhandle Rancher
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Terrible event that happened in Orlando. If you need the details see this news story here.
Several of us have been talking and like other similar events the Liberal Left is coming out aiming directly at guns rather than placing blame where it belongs – radical Islam and the Muslim shooter. There is little doubt gun control advocates will take full advantage of this to promote further restrictions on the 2nd Amendment. This event combined with the 9th Circuit Court’s recent decision on concealed carry is setting the stage.
Hillary Clinton will also politicize Orlando to her advantage. She will motivate her electorate to drive her numbers up to secure the election.
It is difficult for many to look past the death and the needless waste and separate out the value of the free to bear arms over the often too-quick reaction to just ban that which causes the pain. Well – in my mind that which caused the pain in this instance is Islam – not the guns.
JR
Here is a video from last weekend when Prepper Ralph and I took a firearms class from Wolf-Fire Firearms. I cannot emphasize how much I get out of these classes. Many mistakes are made – which allows for learning and correction. Each class I have taken I surprise myself with how much better I do with the next one.
You’ll have to excuse me at 2:12.
Rourke
While thinking about firearms training Goingray58 sent in some info on the Appleseed Project. This is real firearms training and pretty inexpensive.
Some links:
Website:
Classes by State:
http://www.appleseedinfo.org/search-states-map.php
Pricing:
http://www.appleseedinfo.org/pricing.html
FAQ: (answers most of my questions)
http://www.appleseedinfo.org/as_prepare.html
Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/projectappleseed/
Lucky Gunner: (participant article)
http://www.luckygunner.com/lounge/what-is-project-appleseed/
Wikipedia: (origins and stats)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Project_Appleseed
Has links at the bottom to all sorts of other training .. most you have heard of.
I don’t care if people are crack shot SOG troops.. but the ability to effectively use a rifle is a solid idea.. and the concepts taught are constitutional.
All of that sounds good to me…..
GG58
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Rourke: Thanks Goingray58!
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From the Supply Depot: RECOMMENDED MOVIES
Red Dawn(1984) – a classic.
THEM – a classic monster flick from the 50’s. Love this movie.
The Last Ship – TV series
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From food storage products to camping supplies Emergency Essentials carries it all.
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Need clean water?
The most major accomplishment this week was a “Tactical Response” class I attended with Prepper Ralph(my co-host on The Patriot Podcast). This class was offered by Wolf-Fire Firearms based in Mooresville, NC. The class was held Saturday. Weather was extremely hot (over 90 degrees) and humidity was high.
Four people total took the class. Safety was always emphasized. Rules were in place where firearms were kept between sessions. Shooting using different grips, stances, while moving, behind cover, etc. was covered.
Below is a clip of myself running up to engage a threat located on the other side of the barrels. I had to shoot around the left side single-handed which is not my forte but I did well.
I had a great time and instructor David Stutts is informative, patient, and thorough.
I was very happy with my performance. Hits on target were consistent. I feel my skill has progressed and my overall comfort with my firearms – especially the carbine – is getting closer to where I want it.
Also during the week I did a thorough cleaning on all my guns. It was long overdue.
So – what have you done this past week?
JR
It is often professed that a weapons stockpile should consist of firearms in common calibers for one very important reason: Resupply. Due to the sheer volume of rounds with calibers such as 9mm, 45ACP, .223, .308, and .22LR if things get bad these calibers will always be readily available.
Well, maybe not.
Remember the months and months that followed Sandy Hook? It was extremely difficult to find ANY common calibers unless one was willing to pay some extremely inflated prices. I would visit my local gun shop, Academy, Wal-Mart, and DICK’s and there was no 9mm, no .223/5.56, no .22LR. Those were the calibers at the time I was searching for. There was also no 45ACP, no .308, and no .380. I also could not find any .30 Carbine. I did see 10mm sitting on the shelves. There sitting lonely covered with dust were other calibers such as .270, .300 Winchester Magnum, and even .30-06 occasionally. Back then even the .22 Magnum was readily available for quite some time.
Over the last few months since the pandemic ramped up ammo firearm and ammo sales have gone through the roof. A very similar situation has occurred although ammunition is in better supply and prices are more favorable than after Sandy Hook.
I totally understand the theory that the chances of coming across common ammunition such as 9mm and .223 anywhere in the United States are much greater than finding .41 Magnum. Absolutely I agree. With that in mind there are some advantages to the less-popular calibers.
I remember after Sandy Hook two things:
Lessons learned. Next time – and there will be a next time – be stocked up on what you need BEFORE a shortage happens.
Take care all –
JR
Every time I turn around I see the word “tactical”.
Tactical pens. Tactical pants. Tactical socks. Tactical shoes. Tactical belts. Tactical knives. Tactical flashlights. Tactical backpacks. Tactical gloves. Tactical watches. Tactical scissors. Tactical hats. Tactical patches. Tactical handcuffs. Tactical wallets. Tactical lunch boxes. Tactical money clips. Tactical ear plugs.
……and yes….even Tactical Bacon.
Since Obummer got into office everything related to firearms has become popular. Although he wishes he could disarm every American the reality is he has been the biggest salesman of firearms in history. Along with this “tactical” has become a marketing term stuck in front of almost everything that is even remotely related to guns – or not.
I present to you…..the tactical bottle opener.
My biggest issue with the overuse of “tactical” is far too many people buying products that have tactical in the name and thinking that somehow it is endorsed or related to law enforcement and military. A lot of folks out there are getting ripped off.
Well – I need to go. Have to go try out some tactical toilet paper I just got in.
JR
Here is a series of short video’s from Chuck Woolery highlighting Hillary Clinton’s stance on gun control. Every freedom loving, Patriotic American should absolutely vote AGAINST her should she eventually become the Democrat Presidential nominee.
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
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Looking for gun accessories and ammunition?
Here are a few sources……
