Alright folks – a new regular feature will be “Q & A Day”. Basically, ask me a question and I will give you an answer. It can be about pretty much anything – politics, firearms, current events, survival, preparedness, favorite Charlie’s Angel – whatever.
Go ahead – “make my day.”
JR
I have my own limited perspective or ideas. Which, in your opinion, is the best shelter? Trapezium, Geodesic, shipping container or ?
Check out what this guy did with a shipping containers. Someone else might user bigger or strong securing methods.
http://seacontainercabin.blogspot.com/
Capt Michaels,
The last house I built was all of reinforced concrete including the roof which was then spanned with timber rafters so a ‘normal’ roofline would present. Shoot me an email via Rourke and I’ll forward a photo. We might be well ahead to dwell in a ‘normal’ house and have a reinforced concrete structure buried adjacent. The top of such a structure could present itself as a concrete patio replete with pizza oven, etc. Of course the chimney of the pizza oven would also connect to the structure underneath.
I think form follows function and expense largely influences form.
PR
Capt.Michaels – you have already gotten some responses n this but I like the shipping container ideas.
Oh…and he made a video showing the finished product.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6ShrYIBMmU
Capt Michaels,
I’ve a little experience with CONEX myself. I manage to move mine on a pickup truck (1 ton) pulled gooseneck flatbed trailer. I have found that the two of the original HiLift jacks (not sure I would trust the Harbor Freight Chinese knock off jack with that much weight) will just lift a corner of a long shipping container and that one jack will lift the corner of the 24 foot container. I raise the containers, slide 2 3/4″ drill tubing underneath and pull off the flat bed using the winch on my Kubota side by side.
Once on the ground, I repeat the jack process to level, placing only the four corners on solid cinder block. These containers are designed for support at the corners only and can be stacked and lifted full by those corners. Getting the container off of the ground is foremost for long life, especially of the floor. With a lot of care, a similar process can be used to raise a container (especially the shorter) for winching onto a flat bed, again using pipe rollers. Once on a trailer, I jack the ends and remove all pipe. The container is cross chained onto the flat bed at each end and tightened with boomers. My Big Tex is rated at over 14,000 pounds so it will easily carry a container (the small ones tare just less than 5,000#).
I don’t recommend living in a container. For the amount of work and expense involved, I suspect one could build a reinforced concrete or at least a cinder block building that would be more easily turned into a home. CONEX are intended to survive the high seas. The metal used in them has a clad coating resistant to salt water corrosion. When cut with a torch or welded, it outgases an objectionable and likely hazardous gas. I had to seek a large Lincoln dealer to find the proper rod for which to weld on a container and it was so objectionable that I shan’t be doing it again.
Having so said, I own a number of these handy storage containers, greatly preferring the shorter because they are easier to handle with ranch equipment. When ranching in Texas I discovered that the equipment used to dismantle drilling rigs for relocation would easily handle the containers via the fork lift openings in the bottom side. Please note that these openings are spaced beyond the span of the normal lift truck and please do not try to move a container with a standard fork lift.
My thoughts,
PR
Awesome. Thank you for the detailed follow up PR. Agreed, on the harbor freight thing. I’ve always been hesitant of anything they sale. In fact I bought a 1 ton jack to change the tires on my Land Rover, FULLY aware they might give out and put other security measures in place. Brand new out of the box they started slowing releasing. I took them back within the same hour. I will never buy anything else, because when it matters most, it matters most. I believe you covered that topic once before on the old website.
Interesting concept on the secondary building. We’ve been mulling that over to, but yes. I will send you my email via JR for pictures. Again, thank you for much for your time and response.
Thanks for sharing the video Capt. Michaels. Awesome.
1. What level of First Aid / Trauma Training do you have?
2. Can you defend yourself with your off-hand?
Broke my dominate wrist 3 wks ago and decided to test my “survival” abilities without it. Found it incredibly difficult to do even the basics (load a clip, conceal & draw, wash a pan etc.)
UbockinMe – See below:
1. Basic First Aid/CPR
2. Very comfortable with either hand in pistol, not so much with rifles. Working on it.
Good question.
JR,
Having been a southpaw rifle shooter for going on six decades, I’ve thought quite a lot about bolt action rifles. I’ve a theory that the right handed bolt action is actually a left handed action. More so when the rifle is topped with a big scope. Over the years, I’ve developed sufficient muscle mass to support even the big bolt action rifles by pistol grip only and holding tension on the butt/recoil pad. This frees my left hand to work the bolt – and without reaching over the action and telescopic sight. Quick I become too.
I suspect if you are having problems shooting week handed, it may be an eye dominance issue. I’m cross dominant which is why I carried pistols right handed for a while.
I sympathize with all of you learning how to operate with the weak hand. There is a reason old timers call our dominate hand, the educated hand.
PR
On eye dominance.. I got a pirate patch .. no kidding .. gold skull and crossed bones on the front. 🙂 couldn’t help it .. I wear it over my dominant eye and it fits under my glasses .. holding my eye closed never worked for me … can’t chew gum and walk I guess.. Anyway .. I am sure the drills mentioned are much more effective .. but this worked for me pretty well .. range guys looked at me a lot .. might have been the “ARRRRR’s and “Matey’s” ..
Goingray,
I crashed a wonderful airplane on a nice summer day due to detached retinas. Wore that black patch for a long time over one eye that subsequently developed multiple detachments. Shame on anyone approaching on my bad eye side if they get run over. Funny how I thought it made me look like Moshe Dyan (who did have a distinctly Teutonic look going with the patch). The wife kept suggesting a gold ear ring and glad rag so I must have been more piratical than dashing. Avast and begone you scurry buzzards.
PR
UbockinMe,
I teach a lot of weak hand drills and find most people actually shoot better weak handed than strong single handed. The reason is that being uncomfortable, folks just slow down and by slowing down, take pains with obtaining a good sight picture. As a lefty living in a right handed world, I actually carried right handed for some time just for the experience. Single handed operation of a pistol can be difficult the first few times. Us lefties using right handed weapons often develop the tip of our index fingers to operate slide releases, slide locks, and safeties. I like the SIG pistols but hate the slide release as it is hard to operate left handed and have come to prefer ambi 1911 platforms over SIG. All would be well served to practice some one handed only shooting and reloading.
I wore a back brace for a while and have had multiple rotator cuff surgeries. Certain personal hygiene is quite difficult with one hand tied back and then being not able to bend properly. By the time I had the second rotator cuff repaired, I was thinking about a bidet.
Hope you recover perfectly.
PR
Thx PR… I can feel your pain. Slap Tear of left shoulder last year had me gimpin’ around for a while. It’s funny when most people talk about prepping, medical training and keeping skills to a level where you can perform while injured is never discussed. Trust me, when SHTF, things are going to get stressful and fast paced. People we’d be responsible for will be hurt or sick, or even us. Knowing this game won’t have a pause button, I’ve been thinking more & more on how to plan & practice worst case. Still can’t load a mag with one hand. Talking my wife into getting a bidet would be easier!
Take care man.
UB
I shoot .45 acp in pistol. Big fat rounds and skinny magazines are easier to load than some of those high capacity 9mm Glock magazines. I find these hard to load to full capacity even two handed. One more thing in favor of the time proven .45.
PR
Rourke,
Was it hard to form your survival group? Is it frustrating when group members are not as serious as you concerning preparedness? What about when members won’t or can’t afford to purchase the equipment to standardize.
Thanks,
D
Hi D. Good question and one that I may write on later. I am in a MAG and most of us have been together for 2+ years. I am no expert and have had plenty of bumps along the way but now I think we have a great group of guys(and gals).
I got some advice from Capt. Michaels awhile back and it is absolutely true – everyone in the group MUST be 100% committed. This means they attend the meetings – all of them – unless a true emergency occurs. Life happens – but that must be the exception not the rule. i always hear about trust, caution, being careful and suspicious of people. Let me tell you – if you wear a tin foil hat and think every potential new member is a secret agent from some 3 letter agency it will never work out. You’ve got to use some common sense of course but also open up some in order to get to know people. Give it some time and if it doesn’t work out then separate.
I think standardization is great – but you’ve got to decide how practical it is. If someone cannot afford to have a G17 but they have a Taurus G2 and they are kicked out or denied – may have just lost a member that would have saved your life some day. In my group everyone has to have an AR. That is pretty basic. It is not a requirement to own the same pistol. This is just an example.
Some members can have financial problems that stop them from paying for training,etc. If the group is REALLY going to be a Band of Brothers and be there when the S hits the fan why not be there for them now. Throw them a bone and split the cost of the training with a couple other members. Heck – ask the instructor for a discount you never know. Maybe the broke member can come till up your garden or pressure wash your house in exchange for payment of the training. Again – just an example.
Hope this helps D.
@Capt
We get like new used Connex containers for around $1500.00 per.. They will ship, position and level for $250.00 per.. for my money it’s worth it not to have to do it myself, and if they break it they replace it.. I have some component barn plans done and just got the poles cut last week. Considering Concrete in ground within the barn. One will be vented the other not and that will dictate what can go in what container. Roof will support Solar and used to rain catchment. (doing the hot house version of it now).The are between the connexes will contain either equipment, critters or people .. at need. I shared some rough drawings with JR.. I’ve seen them used well for deer camps etc.. Good to know about the corners.
D
I’m interested in the answer as well. It was tough here so far. Lots of interest but very little commitment.. You want to trust who has your six. I routinely talk to folks and feel them out for where they stand .. Like I learned for new conversation (FORM) Family, occupation, recreation., message.. without it being an interrogation. Then go from there.. Like petting a strange dog .. if the body language or feel is off .. graciously close the conversation and find a new dog… if not I get a number and get lunch or attend and event and call them.. gun show .. prep meeting.. range etc etc.. If we have nothing in common on the important things .. I just don’t call them. It isn’t all bad if not though. I’ve found some very good barter partners that way. I’m interested in what JR has on this one or anyone else too..
Thanks goinggray58 for sharing. I wonder if I can get the same prices as you for Connex or perhaps it’s just lucky to be in your area. I really, really need to start calling around here. I’m sure here in Houston I can locate some cheap.
Hey Capt;
while you can’t trust everything you read on craigslist .. looks like you can get about the same deal .. maybe you choose a different vendor.. but it is at least an indicator.
http://houston.craigslist.org/search/sss?sort=rel&query=connex
have fun .. that’s one more thing to do right 🙂
A buddy of mine bought two and I went to actually touch them 40’ers $3000.00 delivered and placed. They were in fine condition.
Only two things I was concerned about .. you can SEE then google and my rain catchment. as well as my shed roofs..
I plan on painting them all the ambient color of the dirt .. then it will look like my garden plots.
The other thing is figuring out how to have an OUT latch from inside..
Some have em some don’t I take .. just something to consider among all the other stuff.. Hermetically sealed i.e. no air an all that.
Goingray,
Hermetically sealed the CONEX are not!
Each container has at minimum two air vents at opposite top corners. These will leak in hard wind driven rain. I block the vents facing the SW (predominate wind direction here). There are some neat door mods for these containers, all requiring welding and cutting which a abhor doing with the coating on the containers. Consider high security metal doors with frames designed for steel buildings. I weld 2″ angle to the open perimeter end of the container set back from the end about the same dimension. Then 3/16″ thick sheet metal which is available here in 6’x3′ strips welds to the angle iron.The door frames are easily welded into the newly fabricated sheet metal end of the container. If you wish, the new end could be set back a tad further and the existing doors disabled and an inside locking mechanism devised (pin and bolt). That way the container resembles its brethren. Some folks might even have loaded pre-staged CONEX in shipping yards just rusting away – and one looks just like the next.
PR
Capt. Michaels,
Before buying that CONEX be sure the floor is in GREAT shape. Any buckling or repairs is a sure sign of future problems. I check the door seals carefully, taking a ladder to look at the top seals (where the leak occurs of course). Next I look at the outside of the container, inspecting for big dents where the lift trucks missed the openings and rust. Rust with ocean coatings is a sure sign of big trouble. I then go back inside the container and have a friend shut and seal the doors. While inside I look carefully for any light – sure sign of leaks. I have a friend shut me inside the container because they are hard to get out of from the inside with shut doors. I take the ladder and examine the outside of the pressure vents (two to four on each trailer at the top edge corners). Sometimes these are plastic and if so are easily damaged. If all checks out, any contract I sign will include language that the delivered container on the ground, will not show additional damage nor floor buckling. Floor buckling is a concern as many of the transports have rollers that just dump one end of the container on the ground and the trailer is pulled away. There is always a big bang when the trailer end of the container hits the ground. This is when floors will buckle, seals will give way, etc. Anyone not agreeing to take back a container damaged during delivery is not someone I want to do business with.
Hope this helps.
PR
Goingray,
The last 48 foot CONEX I purchased was about $5000. If you don’t mind, please share the vendor offering them at $1500.
Thanks,
PR
PR
This is the vendor in Memphis that was used
Jan Harris from Con Global
Her cell is 901-820-6828
near same price and less local
http://atlanticcontainers.net/
I have no experience with them .. but out of Georgia appears national and less “memphis/local”
and they listed here for $1450.00
http://memphis.craigslist.org/grq/5534318117.html
hope that helps
Thanks for the contact.
PR
Great advice PR. I will take heed. Thank you Goinggray58 for the link.
How much and what type long term storable food do you recommend per person?
How long ? 3 months, 6 months, 1 yr ?
Midterm ?
Near term?
Mix of what ?
Anything on your procedures for cycling the food into use today to get it used to prevent date spoilage … or do you donate some of it out and write off etc..
And I think you have answered some of this in a post on the previous site.
Boy goingray58 you ask some good questions.
Here is a brief answer but much like your question regarding the “Top 10 Steps to Prepare for a Coming Collapse in 18 Months?” Which I will publish my answer next week.
How much and what type long term storable food do you recommend per person? As much as possible. If I had to pick a minimum it would be 3 months per person.
How long ? 3 months, 6 months, 1 yr ? Ideally 1 year or more.
Midterm ? Near term? Mix of what ? I like a mix of everyday grocery foods such as canned goods, combined with pails of rice, beans, and pasta, and then freeze dried.
Anything on your procedures for cycling the food into use today to get it used to prevent date spoilage … or do you donate some of it out and write off etc.. I really do not worry about food spoilage. My “everyday foods” that are part of my food storage program are in cans. I have eaten canned foods that were years and years past the exp date with no issues. Same goes for boxes of pasta. I freeze peanut butter than I buy on sale. Of course a moldy loaf of bread goes in the trash.
Hope this answers your question. I may write something up more detailed later – or do a podcast on it. Hmmmmmmm – you’ve got me thinking.
Just stuff I think about .. I have been accused of thinking too much.. drives my family and some co-workers crazy .. especially mgmt..
My perishable spoilage usually goes to the critters.. and they will chase you down to get it when they see it.. I don’t want to get over organized .. but I’m getting to the point where I need seriously seal and bucket stuff .. which you guys have commented on before. Just thinking ahead so I don’t have to open everything to find or to reorganize.
POD CAST Sounds good
JR,
I like your answer. Same applies to bullets and band aids. Store as much surplus as possible.
For many locales, it takes about an one acre of garden to completely support one person’s food needs. Without powered equipment, even a one acre garden is difficult to establish. I view food reserves as needed to get through the winter and for food if something happens and the garden doesn’t produce (lack of rainfall, fire, theft, etc.). Any food surplus is great and wonderful – but realistic survival indicates that at least a two year surplus is needed to guard against a non-producing garden. Imagine how hard it would be on a calorie restricted diet, facing two legged predation, all the while trying to establish and defend a garden.
I recently saw 25 pounds of pinto beans for sale at $12. Think how many hours of effort it takes to grow and process that many beans in your garden. Gardens are labor intensive and cannot compete with large monoculture farms. Having an established garden however gives one an amazing hedge against food uncertainty and it is easier to expand a producing garden than to create anew, if only because of mastery of basic gardening skills. My garden is a partnership with my horses and cattle. Every fall I burn the garden to kill any concentrated bugs and pest worms. I cover the plot with horse and cattle manure and disk at least two directions. If I have any round bale hay left over from the previous winter, I unroll it over the garden plot and disk it into the ground. Come spring, only minimal seed bed preparation is needed and a spring harrow pass quickly creates rows.
Folks, I couldn’t imagine creating a garden from scratch when Congressman Schumer comes to visit. I urge each of you without a garden to get busy this spring. You may find it takes two or three years to make a producing garden. SHTF with only a few months food surplus is guaranteed to make a skinny winter. Even apartment dwellers can experiment with sprouts and potted plants.
PR
Ahh…let me share my experience. I researched this greatly. First of all we kept our stuff in a cooled closet without any sunlight at all coming in. I always keep that storage room/area as cool as possible. “They” recommend keep the temp at 72 or lower. Not always possible for us, but I sure do not keep them in the attic, garage or shed outdoors. We kept regular store packed items before we could start vacuum sealing them for well over the expiration date passed a year and ate them without any problems or yuckiness. When we started hitting the 2 year mark we started rotating them out by eating them.
There is a certain amount of issue with water having plastic leech into them. Be careful how long or what you store something in.
Capt Michaels,
Which is why so many of us use 5-6 gal buckets lined with mylar. The mylar is impervious to water and air migration. Almost all of my food reserves are in mylar lined buckets. I back flush with N2, drop in an appropriate sized O2 absorber, fold the bag carefully to remove as much trapped N2 as possible and seal the mylar bag with an impulse sealer. I snap on a gamma seal and screw the lid down tight. I’ve tried all sorts of labels over the years. The best method I’ve found it to use a magic marker and write the contents and date sealed between the circumferential ridges near the top of the bucket. These ridges protect the writing which will remain legible for decades. Stick on labels eventually fail if for no reason than the heavy buckets rubbing against one another as supplies are rotated/inspected.
The combination of N2 flushing (I’ve written about this technique previous) and O2 absorbers remove more interstitial O2 than any vacuum process. What’s more, it is at ambient pressure so there is little stress other than the content weight on the container.
Hope this helps.
PR
Where do you purchase your food storage supplies? I find a lot of suppliers for Mylar, but prefer US made.
Okay, try not to smack me across the back of the head JR. I know, I know..but there are just some things I cannot shed. Anyway, I do not purchase in large large bulk and I sure don’t do it online. I don’t want, no pun intended, any bread crumbs leading to my door. Slowly and continually I purchase once a month. Initial purchases are still not done in bulk. Nothing says hey look at me….other than buying $2500 worth of supplies and your not a food business…heh
Where do I buy? Costco or whatever sells good stuff reasonable. Costco even has an entire section titled emergency food. Now this is a whole other topic, but buying MRE’s is not always the answer and the weight of 5 of those in your backpack…pffft. Adds up quick. I’ve seend videos and researched this myself. A pack of Ramen noodles (Yuck). I can’t stand them, but in a survival situation, I would sure eat them a pack of 24 only cost $1.68 and are super light.
I live in a county that hasn’t a 911 address system (it’s too poor). My house has no address and is situated central to numerous fenced acres. This creates problems when ordering on line for UPS/FedEx/courier delivery. I approached a business in a nearby town (well 30 miles away) that had a delivery dock and asked, if that for a small fee, I could have bulk items delivered to their address for later pickup by me. Some UPS centers will let you use their address as the delivery address and call for you to pick up. There are a lot of ways around having the delivery personnel realizing you are receiving items from Emergency Essentials (why they advertise on their boxes is beyond me), Cheaper than Dirt, etc. Some things should just be delivered in plain unmarked wrappers.
PR
I have to tell you Capt. I almost chocked on my beer laughing when I read your comment about the Ramen noodles. I agree they are pretty yucky, but boil up a white Ibis, squirrel , Whooping Crane or what ever you have and use that water for the noodles and they ain’t half bad. I am with you though, buying locally from the clubs and where ever I can get them cheapest. I buy what I eat and just keep lots of extras on hand. I do buy some freeze dried Mountain House packets, but I use them on a regular basis for hiking and camping as well.
JR,
I have to quit my job, sell my house, and relocate out of state just to buy a AR so I can join a MAG. I am thinking about it but I have never quit a job in my life.
Rodney,
I feel for you man. I was bad hungry once and it changed my whole perspective on life.
Folks, there is a lot of good sense in standardizing weapon platforms and calibers within a group. I look at such as a goal and not a pre-requisite. We all are on a continuum of wealth and resources, some with surplus, some getting by. When I consider anyone for my group of associates, I first look at character. All of the nice toys in the world won’t make up for a lack of moral fiber. Practicing Jew and Christian are generally welcome but there are exceptions. Non-believers have already demonstrated poor decision making skills by their non-belief. I might proselytize once, but if it doesn’t set, then I want nothing to do with them forevermore.
I will teach any sincere practicing Jew or Christian anything I know. Regardless of circumstances, I will welcome them into my group of associates as long as they have demonstrated good moral development and sincerity of purpose.
As I will never advocate nor practice anything illegal or immoral, I have no fear of law enforcement and find experienced street cops to have many of the requisite skill groups for survival.
PR
Well then, it’s settled. Come to the Republic of Texas then 🙂
Even with all the Oil and Gas layoffs. We’re still doing just fine. Just research the area you want to live, job availability, housing, crime statistics and what not.
Capt. Michaels,
Remember San Jacinto!
That famous battle took place on April 21, 1836 in present day Harris County, Texas.
Houston had the meskins running and yelling, “me no Alamo, me no Goliad,” meaning they weren’t at either of those famous massacres of Texan patriots. Due to proper planning and execution, the army of General Houston defeated the larger and better equipped army of General Santa Anna (also el Presidente de Mexico) in just 18 minutes. Of course it helped that Deaf Smith and Henry Karnes had captured a Mexican courier with critical Mexican order of battle information. This victory paved the way for the ROT. Long Live the Republic!
PR (a native son of Texas)
Here, Here…!!
I raise a glass to toast today, those before me, and to you sir 🙂
I’ve been using a Foodsaver to seal my rice and beans in small 2 to 3 pound amounts then sealing them in 5 gallon buckets should I go the extra mile and use air absorbers also.
Cole, I have never used your method of sealing (foodsaver) but I do recommend using the air absorbers. The more air you can get out the longer the food will last if is isn’t contaminated. For me, I started using Mylar bags when I started storing rice and beans and always use air absorbers. Some of the Mylar bags have a zip lock plus you hot iron them shut to get a really tight seal. The zip lock is used after you open them for use. Mylar isn’t all that expensive and seals very well. Good idea Cole sealing 2 to 3 pound amounts!
From what I understand you can’t vacuum out ALL the air in between the brains or beans etc etc .. the gaps .. the Absorbers are for what remains in the gaps .. I’m about to start what you suggest .. and that is the way I intend to do it and why.. for what it is worth. A vacuum is what it is .. so maybe it’s unnecessary except when using Mylar. I also have it all being frozen at zero degrees to kill off any insect larvae .. Sounds gross I know .. but I have opened stuff I bought sealed from the store and found dead moths.. so . We tolerate germs better than we think .. all the germ-a-phobic people I know .. it’s sad .. their immune systems let them get sick often and they drag it around.. I usually only have a doc when I do something stupid ..
I have thought more than once about getting a CONEX to use for shelter if the SHTF but being in Georgia I don’t have a clue as to how to keep it cool enough to live or sleep in. I guess a dirt roof would certainly help. How do the Texas guys plan to keep them cool in the summer with no electricity?
tin roof over with an air gap.. collect rain water from it and make it a porch if you like.. to extend living or storage space.. solar for DC batteries.. and an RV style AC unit .. They sell vent kits as well .. but you need to cut the connex to install them .. One of the things I am planning .. I honestly had not thought about the RV 12vdc or 24vdc AC until you asked the question.. thanks for asking .. putting it on the nice to have list.. I poked around before finishing the post.. it’d be way cheaper to run the 115V ac and an inverter on the batteries.. not as efficient.. but they are heat pumps and AC both. Found several smallish DC fridges and freezers as well.. Food preservation of fresh stuff would be tough if you don’t smoke meat or jerk it .. I like the line of thought though.
Those things are hot, hot, hot. Gingery is right, the best is a separate tin roof and tin siding to keep direct sun away. I’m careful that whatever I store inside has high heat tolerance. I may store salt and sugar in buckets inside one, but never never food.
PR
Is it just my typos, or has anyone noticed that sometimes things are transliterated? Gingery I did not write in the above reply. Apologies Goingray.
PR
Going grey and everyone- great discussion.I have been prepping since 1998 for a family of 4 to 6 . I recommend a COMBINATION of canned goods,frozen foods,dehydrated,freeze dried, fresh, in various amounts and sizes and in various
means of buying, harvesting, and producing. Ex. We have pails of rice, beans, wheat etc. along with canned goods large and small. As an exp. organic gardener and farmer
we have raised about 80% of our food in our younger days .(including meat) Now,we have two full freezers and I make buckets up of various items to make meals.(ex. fixings for a spaghetti and meatball dinner or a breakfast bucket for 6 . We have about
2 years worth of food for 6.I make our own jams,honey,freeze dried apples ,etc.
Some items are cheaper to buy than to raise.Store what you like and eat what you store as you go along. We have eaten canned food and frozen food thats 6 years old and its been just fine.I recently heard a Dr say that most medications are good for several years after their date is up.(research each med. first)
We also have water stored.Our dehydrated food from Emer. Ess tastes great after 15 years.
Plant berry bushes, fruit trees if you can. Have a small garden to start and learn from-even just potted veggie plants are fine.
We buy from Bjs, regular grocery stores and local farms. I recommend Emergency Essentials ( JR gets a little return if you use his site) ,Legacy ( non GMO and organic- a bit pricey) .
Provident Pantry and Mountain House are exc. in taste and reliability for dehydrated and freeze dried.
If youd like to e mail me just ask JR for my e mail.
JR- How do you start with getting a group? I have tried and we only have two other families and one is not very consistent.
Lightning
Great reply…. Thanks .. A testimonial from someone that has that much put back and has been using it effectively for that long really helps to hear. Hopeful.
Similar feedback to JR’s in terms of food types. .. just differing in how much for how long. 2 years .. man.
What do you do for fuel.. I’m considering a tank fro diesel and gas .. but I don’t know how I’d afford it yet.
I’d be interested in anything you have to say gongray58@gmail.com.
I only check it infrequently.. but I do. JR has my real-time email as well.
1.) I think there is real value in a lessons learned point of view.. I have great organizational skills, but no where near the practical experience.
2.) A year or two in the life might be good too. Something that shows the seasonal flow of what you do when getting ready and executing and maybe the way you organize your time and effort. That along with work is hard for me to manage in a priority order.
See I am always organizing.. to much maybe. Like one crooked board in something I build.. it’s the only thing I can see when done. I’d like to get this right if I can. To much rides on it.
We’ve had a couple people on this thread, including me, ask or talk about groups.
For 24 x 7 Operational Security you have to have maybe 13 -14 people to both work and watch, maybe more or less depending on location and level of access from how many points. Not that I would want to do anything overt.. but it seems hungry or desperate people might be encouraged to take what they want if you can’t keep them from it.. I’m not close to a town really but not so far in the outback that people won’t come looking. Neighbors included.
I think that the topic might deserve a thread of it’s own. Maybe as an on-going topic for JR to consider. one-on-one conversation is good too.
GG58
Oh man..that whole Gas or Diesel thing. I’m only relying on enough gas to get us to the property and that’s it.
First, money…and lots of it. Gas, more than diesel will lose it’s potency or stop working for that matter. Here’s the real issue. Why invest or base your prep needs on a finite resource that will cost you an arm and a leg. I mean, you can buy “Forever gas” as they call it. It’s specially formulated to last for ions, but it’s like 17 dollars a gallon..Yikes!
For a vehicle…get a gasfier (spelling?) PR covered that once on the other forums.
Here’s a little treat for you. All close to $200
https://www.engineeringforchange.org/static/content/Energy/S00070/5%20Gallon%20Bucket%20Build%20Manual.pdf
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-TAt6ekFck&feature=youtu.be
All of these other options are far more cheaper and repair parts more affordable then just relying on gas or diesel
Here is an affordable Solar light that will last 2 years. Currently, out of stock, but can be bought on Amazon or notified when back stock at Luci website.
https://mpowerd.com/products/luci-original
On the gas diesel thing, Correct the higher the refinement the shorter the period it will remain stable if supplemented. Gas if stabilized can go 3-4 years .. taking care and using alcohol to absorb any forming water. Diesel a little longer if you use a bio agent as well.. Kerosene more so. I’m considering a rebuild of early to mid 70’s Truck either six or larger 8. They can be used to support Drip oil in the engines.. still working on the research. I do agree that in the remote site it doesn’t make much sens if you cannot rotate and use the fuel.. In my mind I need it for a couple things. One .. Crop farming .. 1 acre per person cultivated that succeeds .. so maybe a little more. That’d be Diesel. Then gas .. burn it or trade it .. it has some value, along with ammo as default currency. Cost .. Oh yeah .. it is expensive .. In the bug in scenario .. I can spend same money I do now .. just gas up at home and buy more bulk than pump.. and keep it cycled .. same as Diesel. Capt. I am no really disagreeing just going through my thinking. No question it has a limited life span.. But gradually buying ahead on fuel incrementally, would give me a larger than normal buffer certainly .. With deliveries same as Propane for me. My other thinking .. is that it is more likely that things will be “interrupted” until the inept uncle pulls his head out. Again just talking..
for things like Tornadoes, etc .. It should be useful as well as an opportunity. Again just thinking .. happy the hear other views..
Goingray, So many ranchers would be seen with 55 gallon drums in their pickup beds in rural areas of Texas with production one that one might wonder what they were hauling. Drip of course, sometimes called casing head gas.
I installed a small block Chevy crate engine in an old CJ5 Jeep. Mechanical fuel pump, distributer with breaker points, Holley 2bbl carburetor – nothing complex to break, easy to work on, forgiving of gasoline mix, and highly EMP resistant.
living in the woods, I have a 1000 gal bulk gasoline tank and 600 gallon diesel. I treat these fuels with Pri G and Pri D (the very best in stabilizers). Semi-annually, I use a bulk transfer pump to rotate the entire tank through a CIM-TEK filter. Many call this process, polishing, and it serves to distribute stabilizer and remove particulates. A few days afterward, I open a petcock on the bottom of the tank momentarily to release any condensed water (no need for alcohol).
I keep bulk fuels for economics and convenience (more than 30 miles to the nearest pump). My kubota side by side (which I use for daily on the property) and tractor are diesel and of course the diesel tank is filled with red dye non-taxed diesel. For those of you who may not know about red diesel, a dye is mixed with the fuel when intended from non-highway use. Highway taxes are then not paid. Depending upon where you live, these taxes may make up half the cost of the fuel. Of course there is a big penalty if your diesel truck is discovered with red dye in the tank.
I fill the 1000 gallon gasoline tank only when gasoline is the very cheapest and then from a bulk fuel dealer. When gasoline at the pump exceeds $2/gal. I buy 10 gallons in two NATO cans each time I fill up the pickup truck (and of course top off the truck). Back home, I mix Pri G with the fuel in each can and then add to the bulk tank. When pump gasoline exceeds $3/gal, I fuel my gasoline vehicles from the less than $2/gal gasoline in the bulk tank. This results in a direct $1000/2000 fuel savings per bulk tank depending upon the price of pump gasoline. I’ve done this for decades and have never had a problem with either diesel or gasoline. I estimate the average age of my diesel to be 9 years and gasoline 5 years. If anything, the treated gasoline produces slightly better gas mileage then so called fresh pump gasoline.
No doubt gasoline in a non air tight 5 gallon can setting out in the sun will not last 10 years even with treatment but I suspect my bulk gasoline with the regular addition of the 10 gallon fresh about monthly and Pri G will easily go a decade. Were I to notice a fall off in performance, I would polish the fuel per above, drain any condensed water, and if that didn’t work, further rehabilitate by bubbling butane through the fuel.
The bulk tanks are remote from any buildings (actually hidden in the woods) and downhill. Of course bulk fuels present is a danger from vandalism, forest fire, and the like, but it is nice to have several years worth of fuel just waiting to be used.
The best insurance against future uncertainty is our horses, burro (for mules), and cattle all working in partnership with the garden and my dinner plate. Too much ado and priority is put on electronics, solar cells, generators, and petroleum fueled vehicles. These things are transitory at best and the old hay burners are timeless and self fueling.
PR
God write up .. think I’ll keep it. Bubbling through butane is news to me .. Seems obvious after you said it. I’d sure like to have buried tanks.. with the pump side in a building. We’ll see if I get it done .. That is really long stable times.. The polishing thing is new to me too.. Leave it to those Texans! 🙂
Thanks
GG58
Buried liquid fuel tanks all eventually leak. I have three 1000 gallon propane tanks buried for emergency house heat but liquid propane becomes a gas when released and does not present the environmental hazard. I would want any buried liquid fuel tank far far away from either water well or septic system and remote from any building.
PR
I think you’re right goingray (hey, I just noticed spell check changing it to gingery), a separate thread might be useful. There are a lot of force multipliers that can cut down on manpower for perimeter security but when weapons become involved, like Uncle Joe famously remarked, quantity has a quality all its own. I have bulk diesel and gasoline tanks set back in the woods. Normal times, they’re watched with game cameras. When the famous Congressman visits, I use IR trip flares around these so the night watch with NVG might quickly see the light plume and whomever tripped the otherwise invisible flare.
PR
No worries PR.. I appreciate all the previous thoughts .. as Lysdexic as I can be and poorly as I type, I probably just need to hold that on account for when I do it:)
Hmm trip flares and gas.. what could go wrong 🙂
I have much to do/spend before NVG’s become a reasonable expense compared to the basics I have not yet completed… And quality there is $3-4K mark as I read it .. with.. lots of spare proprietary batters and intensifier tubes .. if cheaper..
I have really enjoyed and benefited from all the chatter back and forth this week..
Thanks JR. and everyone..
GG58
Goingray,
Let me further elucidate. The trip wire causes a mechanical striker to break a contained capsule in an infrared glow tube attached high in a tree. I use fence steeples to route the trip wire up the trunk. At no time is there a spark or other flammable risk. Cyalume makes these wonderful devices and every prepper should have boxes of them stashed away. You can bet I do.
See:
https://getcyalume.com/product/chemlight-military-grade-surface-trip-flare/ and http://tnvc.com/shop/infrared-chem-light-sticks-10-pack/. 10 hours of light!
Imagine the fools sneaking around thinking they’re unseen when IR illuminated as bright as day. Now imagine someone with an IR equipped rifle.
These things are potent force multipliers allowing a single NVG equipped sentry to monitor a large area. As my property is wooded/mountainous, I mount the chemlights high in trees. One at the gate, one at the barn, one at the shop, three around the house,..
Like all ambushes, the area around where I place the tripwire is designed with natural barriers such as briers and downed trees to funnel the unsuspecting thief toward the wire – and you may bet I’ve more than one wire against the off chance a wire is simply stepped over accidentally.
Another version of a similar device fires a 12ga blank.
See: http://www.pyrocreations.com/inc/sdetail/11971
and http://www.surplusstore.co.uk/12-gauge-blank-firing-trip-wire-alarm-gate.html.
None of these two jewels would be effected by EMP.
The best vendor I have found for quality IR equipment is JRH Enterprises: http://www.jrhenterprises.com.
PR
PR/GG58…..makes my day to follow your conversations .(Yep…spellchecker is irritating sometimes but i be a NONspeller and appreciate it’s help-usually.) You make me think, provide such valuable information AND tickle my funny bone….the kind of people to share space/life with “if”if all goes south. Lightning….have missed you too….now i feel at home here on the new site 🙂
PR, when you explain your processes/methods and particulars i can’t help but wish you were a mentor to me. The organizations you have been a part of lost a HUGE asset when you separated. It does make me wonder though, if someone of your understanding and expertise is putting the effort/time and funding into your preps….and i am sure what i can”see”through your posts is just the tip of the iceberg…..what information do you have that i do not and how do i get it ? You do not suffer fools lightly and i am not trying to wake the Dragon with my inquiry, but i am truly trying to connect to dots. I DO believe we are headed for a crisis soon… really feel like i am living a different reality than most people around me…this site is one of the only places i don’t feel out of step…..
JR, this question/answer post….PRICELESS !!! Thanks 🙂
Joyce,
Thank you for your kind words. The final touches to my life were completed by being associated with a continuity of government program at the end of the cold war. Those exercises were quite scary. I’ve learned a lot over the decades, from my parents and with our rich uncle, but will never claim to ‘know it all.’ I started life poor and having worked hard, educated myself and learned to underwrite risk. I eventually owned oil and natural gas production. I am self funding and owe no man but the tax man. I have ‘retired’ three times and bored again, am currently looking for that just right position where perhaps once again, I might make a small difference.
As explained previous in this post, I am willing to teach most any sincere Christian or Jew anything I know. As I never advocate anything illegal or immoral, I have no fear from the government of which I was associated for a lot of my life – and I was a Texas judge once upon a time.
I don’t necessarily think things ‘might go south’ as you say, but I do believe there are powerful indicators that huge adjustments might be in the offing. Never forget Proverbs 13:16 and 27:12. I stay in contact with a lot of my buddies who are/were professional intelligence officers but have no amazing crystal ball insight as to the future.
PR
Rourke,
Anyone out there digging into using unmanned aerial systems (drones) when needed to put a situational awareness/detection bubble around their place?
Yes! I am just starting. Picked up two small “Hubsan” drones to learn how to ‘fly’ them. I should have got 6 of em cause the learning curve is going to get $$$$. At least I can salvage the Batts and some major parts. I’m going through props like potato chips. Making the leap to the bigger rigs is scary… considering how may props I’ve wreaked. Limited ‘air time’ is an issue too… IMO… go small and cheap Wreak your way to a good grade camera rig.
Triple T,
If you make the leap to one of the more advanced platforms like a DJI Phantom 3, they are a breeze to fly. Because they are GPS stabilized, they will hold position and altitude when you let go of the sticks and…return to home if your controller looses contact or you push the RTH button. The camera is gyro stabilized which means you continue to see a level picture even when the quad is leaning during flight and you can swing it forward for “first person view” flight or down when you want to take a look around your area. I’ve been playing with 11 different platforms over the last two years and I gotta tell you guys the utility of these things is amazing. I now have a fixed wing platform that will stay up for two hours flying the pattern I set it to and is capable of flying distances of 30 miles (not that I would condone this). Makes it very easy to keep an eye on what’s going on around me and when it’s at 300 feet, you don’t hear or see it.